Friday, November 21, 2003
Andy's Sushi Recommendations
Andy says - "When I first moved here I was working in Cupertino and went to Ikenohana with head sushi chef Howard. Who later opened Kitcho, also in Cupertino. But the quality for price wasn't that great so I stopped going there. My favorite sushi restaurant in Cupertino is Sushi Kuni on De Anza south of Stevens Creek. It's authentic Japanese Sushi and Cuisine with Kunio and Steve. In Santa Clara, I frequented Sushi O Sushi at El Camino and Bowers. This is a Korean run Japanese restaurant that has big portions and excellent fish. The owner, Sam, is a great guy but also Chris was my main Sushi chef. Later Chris opened up his own restaurant in Campbell, called TGI Sushi near Hamilton and Winchester. Chris always makes the atmosphere lively and carries over the traditions from Sushi O. 2 years after opening that restaurant, Chris opened up his second TGI, recently, in Mountain View at the end of California and San Antonio. Chris is making the second one more of a sports sushi bar - complete with plasma widescreen TVs showing various sporting events. And then in Mountain View I go to Yakko, also Korean run.
"Stay away from (in general) Kaiten Sushi (revolving sushi) - because you never know how long the fish has been circling. But you can always get more fresh fish straight from the Sushi chefs at those restaurants. Such as Seito Sushi in Mountain View is pretty good for that style. I'd stay away from Miyake in general. I had some really bad fish there. I should have noticed something when I walked in and they scream "Irashaimase" (welcome) because like the advice of the ramen master in Tampopo, the overexuberance is usually covering up inferior quality.
"As for sushi ordering, order whatever you like - Maki (rolls) or Nigiri (standard 2 pc sushi) or even Hand rolls. But always be willing to try stuff you haven't had before. Also break away from the generic fish - e.g. Maguro (Tuna), Hamachi (Yellow Tail), Salmon. Try the fatty Toro (fatty Tuna) or Chu Toro. Try the Shiro Maguro (White/Albacore Tuna). Aji (Mackarel) and Tai (Red Snapper?) are other examples. If you want to be adventurous try the Ama Ebi (Sweet Shrimp) but only get it if they deep fry the head in the back to get the full experience. In general, any spicy Tuna roll or Spicy Scallops will be spicier in a Korean restaurant than a strictly Japanese one. If you're a super wimp like me be sure to let them know not to go too spicy. I'd also recommend the spicy scallops sushi style (not hand roll). The best ones I've had are at Sushi Kuni but so are TGI and Yakko. Also, just because you're at a Sushi restaurant don't stick to just sushi. Try some of the cooked fish from the kitchen. For example, I often get a hamachi kama (Yellowtail Jowls). Ask your sushi chef what's good. I find that the Korean Sushi chefs are more likely to say "everything's good" whereas the Japanese chefs will tell you specifically what's best that day.
"Also general faux pas is drowning your sushi in soy sauce. If you like at that way it's fine. In general the sauce is there to accent the fish. Dip the fish in the soy sauce. Turn your nigiri upside down so you can dip it in the soy sauce.
"Recommendations for people who don't eat fish - lunch bento boxes with chicken or beef - also unagi, anago, egg, shrimp (ebi), octopus (tako), squid (ika), spider rolls and other rolls... Tell your sushi chef what you can and can't eat and they'll make something for you.
"If you want to get the best service and cuts, you really need to meet the Head sushi chef, so if you can, always sit at the bar. Try to engage in conversation.
" Eating big rolls - it's not taboo to eat it as finger food. Also, I cut it up into parts with chopsticks and eat it in parts. However you get it into your mouth - that's fine.
"Unlike most people who go to sushi restaurants in the States, sake is usually never drunk hot. The only time you have hot sake is a. in the winter or b. if it's bad sake, to mask the bad quality. Once in a while try a nice premium sake which is served at room temperature or chilled. But most people can't afford to do that all the time because it is quality. For example a large of my favorite Sake at Sushi Kuni would run 27 dollars. You can also buy small sake bottles and the large bottle and whatever's left over the restaurant will keep for you for the next time you're there. Because of course you're a regular. Right?
"Some of my favorite Sakes are Hakkaisan, also Kubota and Otokoyama. The latter 2 you'll find at most Sushi restaurants that carry premium Sake. So far I've only seen Hakkaisan at Sushi Kuni. But Chris from TGI promises me he's hunting down Hakkaisan for me."
"Stay away from (in general) Kaiten Sushi (revolving sushi) - because you never know how long the fish has been circling. But you can always get more fresh fish straight from the Sushi chefs at those restaurants. Such as Seito Sushi in Mountain View is pretty good for that style. I'd stay away from Miyake in general. I had some really bad fish there. I should have noticed something when I walked in and they scream "Irashaimase" (welcome) because like the advice of the ramen master in Tampopo, the overexuberance is usually covering up inferior quality.
"As for sushi ordering, order whatever you like - Maki (rolls) or Nigiri (standard 2 pc sushi) or even Hand rolls. But always be willing to try stuff you haven't had before. Also break away from the generic fish - e.g. Maguro (Tuna), Hamachi (Yellow Tail), Salmon. Try the fatty Toro (fatty Tuna) or Chu Toro. Try the Shiro Maguro (White/Albacore Tuna). Aji (Mackarel) and Tai (Red Snapper?) are other examples. If you want to be adventurous try the Ama Ebi (Sweet Shrimp) but only get it if they deep fry the head in the back to get the full experience. In general, any spicy Tuna roll or Spicy Scallops will be spicier in a Korean restaurant than a strictly Japanese one. If you're a super wimp like me be sure to let them know not to go too spicy. I'd also recommend the spicy scallops sushi style (not hand roll). The best ones I've had are at Sushi Kuni but so are TGI and Yakko. Also, just because you're at a Sushi restaurant don't stick to just sushi. Try some of the cooked fish from the kitchen. For example, I often get a hamachi kama (Yellowtail Jowls). Ask your sushi chef what's good. I find that the Korean Sushi chefs are more likely to say "everything's good" whereas the Japanese chefs will tell you specifically what's best that day.
"Also general faux pas is drowning your sushi in soy sauce. If you like at that way it's fine. In general the sauce is there to accent the fish. Dip the fish in the soy sauce. Turn your nigiri upside down so you can dip it in the soy sauce.
"Recommendations for people who don't eat fish - lunch bento boxes with chicken or beef - also unagi, anago, egg, shrimp (ebi), octopus (tako), squid (ika), spider rolls and other rolls... Tell your sushi chef what you can and can't eat and they'll make something for you.
"If you want to get the best service and cuts, you really need to meet the Head sushi chef, so if you can, always sit at the bar. Try to engage in conversation.
" Eating big rolls - it's not taboo to eat it as finger food. Also, I cut it up into parts with chopsticks and eat it in parts. However you get it into your mouth - that's fine.
"Unlike most people who go to sushi restaurants in the States, sake is usually never drunk hot. The only time you have hot sake is a. in the winter or b. if it's bad sake, to mask the bad quality. Once in a while try a nice premium sake which is served at room temperature or chilled. But most people can't afford to do that all the time because it is quality. For example a large of my favorite Sake at Sushi Kuni would run 27 dollars. You can also buy small sake bottles and the large bottle and whatever's left over the restaurant will keep for you for the next time you're there. Because of course you're a regular. Right?
"Some of my favorite Sakes are Hakkaisan, also Kubota and Otokoyama. The latter 2 you'll find at most Sushi restaurants that carry premium Sake. So far I've only seen Hakkaisan at Sushi Kuni. But Chris from TGI promises me he's hunting down Hakkaisan for me."
Monday, November 03, 2003
Penne with fennel, apple and spinach.
Fry some chopped pancetta in a little olive oil to start. When lightly browned, add 1 bulb fennel, cut in half and then sliced. A couple of minutes later, when translucent, add 1 apple, cut into wedges and then sliced. A minute later, add about 3 cups of fresh baby spinach. As soon as it is wilted, add the pasta, stir and serve. Begin the sauce with 6-7 minutes on the timer, and with time it takes for the pan to heat up, sauce and pasta should be done at the same time.
Pao!
No, not preceded by Kung. This is Portuguese Pao, crusty as the "Brun" Pao sold in the Irani Bakeries of Mumbai. From the cookbook "Portuguese Homestyle Cooking" by Ana Patuleia Ortins. Don't be fooled by the title, this is homestyle cooking if you own a bakery and have a smoker in your backyard the size of a small hut. Unlike the sausage, the bread was doable in my kitchen - there were 2 tricks - a preferment and a couple of eggs worth of egg whites added to the final dough. The pao were delicious. We ate them with hamburgers, for which they were a wee bit too crusty. Still anything to avoid those store bought burger buns.
While we were doing the burgers we also cooked up some corn. As per The New Joy of Cooking, we soaked the corn in cool water for about 45 minutes before cooking. We placed the corn directly on the coal grate, on the edges, around the coals. They cooked while the burgers were cooking, then I took the top grate off and rolled them around to help them cook a little more evenly. This turned out to be important - I missed one and it was undercooked on one side. Next time, perhaps just place the corns on the coals directly after the burgers are done?
While we were doing the burgers we also cooked up some corn. As per The New Joy of Cooking, we soaked the corn in cool water for about 45 minutes before cooking. We placed the corn directly on the coal grate, on the edges, around the coals. They cooked while the burgers were cooking, then I took the top grate off and rolled them around to help them cook a little more evenly. This turned out to be important - I missed one and it was undercooked on one side. Next time, perhaps just place the corns on the coals directly after the burgers are done?
Latkes and Quick Apple-Pear sauce
Latkes - 2 medium russet potatoes, peeled and grated. 2 small shallots, peeled and grated into the potatoes. Put the potatoes and shallots in a cheesecloth, salt lightly and wring out as much free moisture as possible. Then redistribute and squeeze some more.
Add 2 tablespoons of whole wheat flour, 1 of white allpurpose, some salt, pepper, 1 tsp baking powder, 2 eggs, stir to coat the potatoes evenly.
Peel, core and slice 1 pear and 1 apple. Place in a small saucepan on high heat. When "boiling", turn down to medium low, and mash a bit with a spoon. Serve when the latkes are done.
To cook the latkes - heat 1/4 inch of olive oil in a large skillet to 300-325 F. Form the potato mixture into medium balls - you should have 5-6. Roll/Flatten in some flour on a plate, then place in the olive oil and flatten some more. They should end up around 1/2 inch thick.
The latkes were done when they reached an internal temperature of 180F. By this temperature, eggs are almost always solid. So it's a pretty safe temperature to go by when cooking things that are bound by egg.
Thoughts - not the most delicate latkes, but not the worst I've had by a long shot. The apple-pear sauce, born of necessity (it was the last apple we had) turned out to be quite adequate.
Add 2 tablespoons of whole wheat flour, 1 of white allpurpose, some salt, pepper, 1 tsp baking powder, 2 eggs, stir to coat the potatoes evenly.
Peel, core and slice 1 pear and 1 apple. Place in a small saucepan on high heat. When "boiling", turn down to medium low, and mash a bit with a spoon. Serve when the latkes are done.
To cook the latkes - heat 1/4 inch of olive oil in a large skillet to 300-325 F. Form the potato mixture into medium balls - you should have 5-6. Roll/Flatten in some flour on a plate, then place in the olive oil and flatten some more. They should end up around 1/2 inch thick.
The latkes were done when they reached an internal temperature of 180F. By this temperature, eggs are almost always solid. So it's a pretty safe temperature to go by when cooking things that are bound by egg.
Thoughts - not the most delicate latkes, but not the worst I've had by a long shot. The apple-pear sauce, born of necessity (it was the last apple we had) turned out to be quite adequate.
